What makes a clothing designer?

[Atomic Ave Clothing Company]

With all of the posts about what does or does not make one a model or photographer... I just had to say a side note from a wardrobe perspective.

 

Buying a bunch of Leopard Print / Cherry / Polk-a-Dot fabric and a vintage pattern (or my personal favorite... ripping off stripper gear) does not make you a clothing designer. You aren't designing anything you are copying it, and violating copyright laws as well... but that is just my personal opinion.

 

Do great minds think alike, of course. And is there only so much that can be done, yes. But to constantly see things like that that is listed in the above statement is extremely discouraging for someone trying to make something original. Clients will happily pay $60-$80 for such mass produced "designs" but will scoff at paying a seamstress or designer a decent price for custom or limited edition garments.

 

What is it about custom and limited edition designs that people just don't understand? I go through 5-10 fittings for most custom orders. Not made to measure which is basic measurements, but truly custom orders. If you're worth your salt as a seamstress your client's weight should be able to fluxuate up or down by around 10 pounds and still fit in the garment comfortably... Women fluxuate, it's human nature!

 

I know this discussion is borderline "rant" but I once again had someone try to place a custom order and demand production at 3rd world sweat shop prices. I deal with this sort of thing far too often (at least every other month). What part of "Handmade by a single seamstress in the USA" conveys wholesale mass produced pricing? Let alone invokes a sense of entitlement by some who feels the need to tell me how I am ripping them off? It's discouraging and extremely frustrating to say the least...

 

Am I doing something wrong? What gives this sort of impression? I just don't get it...

[Hold Fast Handbags]

Honestly, I think alot of consumers have just grown accustomed to living in a discount, throw-away culture and either can't or don't want to see the difference in the quality and construction or production costs of handcrafted American made items. I deal with this alot too, even from friends (because I can make it myself I should be practically giving it away?)

Because of the economy I've also been seeing alot of shows and news stories telling people they can get discounts on just about anything and how to bargain because "retailers really want your sale."

 

Just my two cents :)

[Atomic Ave Clothing Company]

Agreed... it's the unnecessary need to be aggressive and condescending that I don't understand. Quality construction is something that you need to see or have a hands on day to day wear and tear experience to understand the difference.

[Kim Coquette]

Americans have become so accustomed to buying disposable items that when we buy something now we dont expect that it will be good quality or that it will last, especially with clothing and electronics. We expect that we will have to replace it or throw it away probably within a year. Of course I know that your garments are quality, because I have had the pleasure of literally watching you make them, but I think from others' perspective, why are they going to pay more for something that, yes, may be prettier than cheap designs but will only last as long as the cheap garment. And when you assure them that your pieces are of great quality, they think why should they believe you because we are constantly assured that we are buying something of quality and it breaks 10 days later so that we have to buy another one. This definately isnt my opinion regarding your clothing, because I would gladly pay twice as much for one of your custom or limited edition hand made designs than anything else, even other hand made garments (cause you know that there are lots of people who hand make things but the quality and design is still crap), as you well know, but I am thinking about what I would think if I didnt personally know you

[richardwangphotography]

Here are some thoughts regarding your post.

 

These are the steps I think of when I hear custom made, otherwise known as bespoke.

 

1.  First a sit down with the tailor.  You discuss fabrics, body proportions, silhouettes, age appropriateness, buttons, fasteners, even how hard you wear clothes.

2.  Measurements are taken, from which a pattern is cut specifically for you.

3.  First fitting. You try on a muslin,  and it's adjusted.

4.  Second fitting. You try on the unfinished item and once again is adjusted and the buttons and fasteners location are set.

5.  Third fitting. You try on the semi-finished item and final adjustments are made.

6.  Fourth fitting. You try on the finished item and adjustments are made as needed.

 

Granted my personal experience with bespoke clothing has been limited to suits and shirts, but having been accompanied ladies, such as my mother, to seamstresses, the process is very similar.

 

Second, when I hear "hand made", I expect hand sewing,  since almost every item of clothing has some hand work involved.  With a bespoke suit, about 80% of it is actual hand sewing; the arm holes, the shoulders, the collar, the waist, the seat, the cuffs, the breast and the lapels.

 

I feel that every ladies should once in her life experience wearing a bespoke item of clothing, especially her wedding gown.  It truly is an item of clothing made for you.  Most importantly it fits. 

 

But because of the time spent on each item of clothing, bespoke is very expensive.

 

Cast in point.  I buy my suits from Oxxford Clothes in Chicago. At present, a bespoke suit from Oxxford is over $4,000.  An overcoat is over $5,500.  A bespoke shirt from Borelli is around $250.00. 

 

For the ladies, a custom made dress starts at about $800.00.  And it's not unknown for a truly custom bridal gown to be in the $10,000 (+) range.

 

I think mass produced clothing and it's associated price is a very good thing.  In the past, only the rich had more than a few items of clothing.  It was almost unheard of for a woman to have more than 5 dresses or a man to have more than 3 suits.  Now because of mass production, everyone can enjoy something that was once only for a few.

 

[Lilly F Elliott]

Sadly this is everywhere right now, in every area of the arts. No one wants to pay for anything but they all have a sense of entiltlement to everything. Its in music, visual arts, fashion, everything. Your post is almost identical to one made by a fine art doll artist called  Ugly Shyla, you might know her, But she was despairing about how she sells her work for less than it is really worth but people still complain about the price. They are used to mass produced and just don't understand what hand made one of  kind means anymore.

Everyone should know the pleasure of wearing clothes that are perfectly fitted to their body and that last. perhaps as the current level mass production is not sustainable things might change.....I trully hope so for all of us real artists in every field.

[Danni Marie]

The majority of consumers have the quantity over quality mindset. Take Forever 21 for instance, they produced a shoe that was a dead ringer for mui mui shoe seen on the runway. Fashion bloggers swooped them up claiming it allowed them to have runway style at shopping mall prices. Do I agree with it, hell no! Originality and creative genius is so under appreciated. But its the state of things these days and I think for many of us who work in fashion,whether its design, stylists, or even writers. Use it to almost up the bar and create things that those who appreciate quality will happily buy and are so original people know its a knockoff if someone tries to duplicate it.

[The Trousseau]

There are a few things I asked myself when I built the business model I decided upon when I went into selling vintage clothing.  First, what do I bring to the table that others don't?  My dresses have to be something that are unique-- that is, if they can get acceptable modern substitutions, for the same price or less, why would they purchase from me?  I have made some mistakes in this, but for the most part, my dresses are either unique in their design, meaning iconic of an era, or they are at a price point and quality that makes them more appealing than what is new. 

 

Then I look at the market.  I work two jobs and still worry about how X amount will pay for X+Y amount.  My advertising has to bring more in than I spend.  So my marketing is targeted to those who are likely able to afford the price point I have set up.  I have found my specialty and my niche.  I can do that well, but I can't do everything vintage and do it well. I research my prices and decide what I think I can sell an item for and make a profit that might help pay for Y.

 

Then I don't bemoan the fact that people will think my prices are too high because I have a clear business model.  I know what I can and can't do.  If people complain, I cheerfully send them to other vintage sellers, or retro clothing dealers, where they can get that special dress for a show or contest they might be planning on attending.  I know my prices are high, I also know that I can't offer the quality and type of dress I carry for less.   At some point that person I referred to other sellers wants to get married, she might think of me first, remembering that I treated her complaint with understanding.

 

So, if you aren't happy with the responses you get on your prices, you might want to think about your market.  If you know that what you offer needs to be sold for X, then find the market where people will appreciate what you do and plan to pay the price for it.  If what you bring to the table is something they won't find anywhere else, then your only problem is to find those who are willing to be wowed by it enough to plunk down the dollars needed. 

 

[Roxy Tart {PL Team / Comm. Mgr}]

I have a seamstress who makes a lot of my clothes, and I agree that everyone should  experience wearing a one of a kind custom made piece, however, I also understand that many can't afford it. As The Trousseau said, it's all about who you market to. If the people you are marketing to are rude about your prices, they are not the people you want to be dealing with. Find people who appreciate your hard work, and will treasure your creations.

 

As for mass market stuff, it's always gonna be out there, people can only afford so much, and for some things, it's wonderful to be able to run out and know you can get what you need for a cheap price, even if it won't last. I tend to wear my dresses/ outfits no more then 3 times before they are re-purposed, re-made or recycled. So sometimes, the cheap stuff just works.

 

HOWEVER, I do not condone knock-offs. While imitation is flattery, there is a point where you are stealing another persons designs, and that's just wrong. If you can't afford the real thing, too bad! Buy something else, but don't condone people stealing designs by buying them just so you can have the "pretty thing". It's wrong, and rude, and in some cases, illegal.